How to crochet a Hairy Molly

I had a question posted on Flickr, about how I made the Hairy Molly’s, so here is a little tutorial. Ciderwithrosie, this ones for you!!

Notes:

It takes a long time to untwist the twine, so I’ve written the instructions for the smaller Hairy Molly. But the pictures I have used are for making the larger Hairy Molly. The reason I have done this is because I made the larger Hairy Molly slightly differently, and it worked out easier.

I hope this doesn’t confuse folk, if it does, sorry!! When I get the chance, I’ll make another small Hairy Molly and put up pictures. I have completely run out of plastic from making all the toxic coral for the Irish Crocheted Coral Reef, and need time to gather more!!

The technique of crocheting over several thicknesses of thread or cord is common in Irish Crochet. It is used to make a more robust, padded, almost 3 dimensional, motif. Here I simply used twine for my padding; you just crochet over it as normal.

Materials:

Plarn - Plastic bag yarn (How To make plarn tutorial YouTube)

8 lengths of plastic twine. Approx 12” long

Crochet hook (I think I used a 6.5mm)

Scissors

Method:

This is a very rough technique. Don’t worry about adding extra or accidently losing a stitch, keep it to roughly 18 sc in each row. You don’t notice the stitching when all the twine is fluffed out.

Ch 19,

Row 1: Sc into 2nd ch from hook, sc in each across. 1ch, turn.

Row 2: Place one length of twine along the previous row, hold it in place as you crochet over it. Sc across as normal. Leave approx 1” of the twine sticking out one end, and 6” the other. When you get to the end of the row, sc over the twine only, this will secure it in place. (The twine can also be adjusted at the end).

Row 3-9 Then 1ch, turn, skip 1st sc, sc across, adding in a piece of twine in each row.

Row 10: sc in each st across, without twine. Do not break the plarn.

Row 11: Fold the crochet in half so the bottom and top rows are together. Sc into both rows to join them. Fasten off.

To Finish

The side with the 6” of twine hanging free, will become the top of the Hairy Molly. Start, to unravel the twine. This is the slow part and will take time and patience... When I had run ravelled all the strands of twine, I snipped at the fluffy twine. This was just to make it uneven, and more natural looking, but is completely optional. Be careful you dont get carried away and end up with a crew cut..

Then simply turn up the bottom, roughly 1 ½ - 2 inches.

Pull and tweek it into a cylinder shape, or until it is standing freely. It is quite robust so don’t worry about damaging it.

You have now made a Hairy Molly!

The Curly Whirly

Some years ago I knitted Kemberly Chapmans 'Baby's First DNA Model'. I translated the pattern into crochet, but never got it together to actually crochet it. Instead I tweaked and twisted it, until it become The Curly Whirly. Another useless, but fun piece of crochet that fitted well with the other crocheted coral I was making at the time. (Named after a favourite childhood sweet!)

I have included the theory behind the stitches, because, I think, it makes it a lot easier to crochet, and you can correct mistakes easily made from miscounting. Also, if you understand how the shaping is done, you can design your own shape.

Basically, The Curly Whirly is a crocheted a tapered tube. By crocheting in a continuous circle or spiral you make a tube. By increasing and decreasing in each row, you make the tube twist.

To make a smooth twist, the increase and decrease must stay constant:

• They must stay an equal distance from each other.

• They must be done in every row.

• For a smooth twist, they must not be crocheted directly above the increase or decrease in the previous row, but in the stitch next to it. (If you increase on top of the increase in the previous rows, you will get bumps)

The increases and decreases cancel each other out, so they will not cause the crochet to get smaller, only to twist. To make a tapered tube you have to add in more decreases. You do this by adding in extra decreases between the original increase and decrease, (equal distant between the original increase and decrease).

Another point to remember is that, because of the curve, the start of the row is shifting. So I take the stitch increase, which is constant, to be the start of each row. It’s easier to remember.

Once you have the idea, it’s easy to play around with the shape.

Simply put:
Row A: Create an increase and a decrease to make the tube. These will remain constant, and in every row.
Row B: To start shaping, simply add extra decreases between the original increase and decrease and then between the decrease and the increase at the start of the row.

Alternate between Rows A and B to experiment with curves. Or add more Row A’s to make the taper slower and longer.

Make sense? Here is a pattern for a free standing Curly Whirly

The Pattern

Materials:
I used a 3.50 crochet hook, and Tivoli Celtic Aran yarn, but this pattern is adaptable. Use any yarn, and a hook a size smaller than you would normally use. This helps keep it firm. It is freestanding and quite stable, there is no need to stuff it. You can use a stitch-marker to mark the rows.

Abbreviations:

ch = chain
slst = slip stitch
sc = single crochet
inc = increase by making 2sc into the same stitch
dec = decrease by crocheting 2 stitches together

Notes:
Because of the curve, the start of the row is shifting, so take the stitch increase, which is constant, to be the start of each row, marked here as the increase (inc). For UK terms substitute dc for sc, and sc for slst.


Ch 32. Insert hook into 2nd ch from hook
Row 1: sc in each stitch. Do not turn. Continue to work in a spiral from this point on. (31sc)
Row 2-12: sc in each around
Row 13: inc, 15sc, dec, 15sc
Row 14-18: repeat row 13
Row 19: inc, 6sc, dec, 7sc, dec, 6sc, dec, 7sc
Row 20: inc, 14sc, dec, 14sc
Row 21: inc, 6sc, dec, 6sc, dec, 6sc, dec, 6sc
Row 22: inc, 13sc, dec, 13sc
Row 23: inc, 5sc, dec, 6sc, dec, 5sc, dec, 6sc
Row 24: inc, 12sc, dec, 12sc
Row 25: inc, 5sc, dec, 5sc, dec, 5sc, dec, 5sc
Row 26: inc, 11sc, dec, 11sc
Row 27: repeat row 26
Row 28: inc, 4sc, dec, 5sc, dec, 4sc, dec, 5sc
Row 29: inc, 10sc, dec,10sc
Row 30: inc, 4sc, dec, 4sc, dec, 4sc, dec, 4sc
Row 31: inc, 9sc, dec, 9sc
Row 32: repeat row 31
Row 33: inc, 3sc, dec, 4sc, dec, 3sc, dec, 4sc
Row 34: inc, 8sc, dec, 8sc
Row 35: repeat row 34
Row 36: inc, 3sc, dec, 3sc, dec, 3sc, dec, 3sc
Row 37: inc, 7sc, dec, 7sc,
Row 38: repeat row 37
Row 39: inc, 2sc, dec, 3sc, dec, 2sc, dec, 3sc
Row 40: inc, 6sc, dec, 6sc
Row 41: repeat row 40
Row 42: inc, 2sc, dec, 2sc, dec, 2sc, dec, 2sc
Row 43: inc, 5sc, dec, 5sc
Row 44: repeat row 43
Row 45: (to finish): 3sc, dec, 3sc, dec, 2sc, (dec)x4
1slst , 1ch

Fasten off and weave in ends

Freestyle - Green Coral - NOT TESTED

This was one of the first pieces I made for the UK Crocheted Coral Reef. I had a request for this pattern, so here it is! The hook size and yarn type don't matter, just use a hook size appropriate to the yarn or a size smaller.

Hook: 2.5mm
Yarn: scrap acyrlic
Tools: Yarn needle,
Skill Level: beginner

Stitches used:
Chain (ch)
Slip Stitch (sl st)
Single Crochet US (sc)
(For UK terms, simply substitute sc for dc)

Abbreviations used:
Each (ea)
Stitch(es) (st / sts)

Work the base in continuous rounds for the 1st 10 rows

Ch 3, join with slst to creat a circle
Round 1: 6sc into circle (do not join) (6)
Round 2: 2sc into each (12)
Round 3: *2sc in the next st, 1sc* repeat to end (18)
Round 4: *2sc in the next st, 2sc* repeat to end (24)
Rnd 5 -12 : sc in each (24)
Rnd13: *2sc into next st, 2sc*, repeat to end (30)
Rnd14: *5ch, slst into 1st ch, slst into next st, 1sc*, repeat from * until end. Slip stitch to 1st sc of previous round.
Weave in ends.

Make several and sew the bottoms loosely together.